As surprising as this might sound, I waited until I reached my thirties to visit Thailand. I say ‘surprising’ because Thailand is often listed as one of the best countries to travel to as a young backpacker. For some reason, it never appealed to me, mainly due to its popularity. I was afraid to find myself amongst too many tourists! There is, however, one thing I was dying to see in Thailand and that is the Annual Lantern Festival also known as Yi Peng / Loh Krathong by locals. This event usually falls during the month of November, and therefore the timing last year was perfect for me since I was between jobs at that time!

Now, let me tell you that there is one major downside with visiting Thailand at that time of the year and that is: it’s the rainy season in the south eastern part of the country where you find the beautiful islands of Koh Pha Ngan and Koh Samui, which I unfortunately had to skip. Apart from that, I’ve had a fantastic trip and found that most places weren’t too crowded (this might be a direct consequence from covid though) and very well organised for visitors.

Krabi

My trip started off in Krabi, which is a picturesque town located on the west coast of southern Thailand. It’s known for its stunning beaches and lush jungle, but more importantly for its towering limestone cliffs.

Where to stay in Krabi?

I chose to base myself in Krabi Town, which in retrospect I would do differently. I’d suggest staying in the coastal town of Ao Nang since the majority of day trips and water activities depart from there. It’s also much more lively at night!

Maya Bay

The first day trip I’ve been on is probably the most popular and iconic in all of Thailand. Yes, I’m referring to the wonderful Maya Bay, which Leonardo DiCaprio made popular after the movie The Beach in 2000. I had seen horrendous photos of this beach crammed with tourists and was afraid of being disappointed. However, I’m happy to report that the Thai government has in fact closed the beach for 4 years to allow nature to regenerate. They’ve also built a new dock on the other side of the island and have regulated the number of boats that can come in and the amount of time that people can spend on the island. Please note that it’s also prohibited to swim in the bay; which might be disappointing to some, but I personally thought it made the experience so much better! The group day trip to Maya Bay costs approximately $125 AUD and usually includes stops at Bamboo Island, Loh Lana Bay, Koh Phi Phi’s main beach, Monkey Beach, Pi Leh Lagoon, Maya Bay and Viking Cave.

Hong Island

This is the day trip you didn’t know you needed. Trust me, and just do it! It’s absolutely fantastic! Hong Island is much more secluded and less popular than Koh Phi Phi. The scenery will leave you speechless. The day trip usually starts with a stop near Daeng Island for some snorkling (where I saw some beautiful clown fish!) before heading to Hong Island to spend the rest of the day. Upon arrival, I’d suggest doing the hike up to the 360° view point. It shouldn’t take you more than 30 minutes, although it gets really hot.

You’ll likely make it back to the mainland in Ao Nang before sunset. I'd recommend checking out Reeve Beach Club for some drinks and/or dinner! The coastal views are beautiful and they serve really delicious cocktails!

Railay Beach

Yet another popular destination that you don’t want to miss! Access to Railay Beach is only possible by boat due to its location on a peninsula surrounded by high limestone cliffs, which makes it isolated from the mainland. Visitors can take a longtail boat or a speedboat from Ao Nang Beach. The journey takes around 15-20 minutes by long-tail boat. Once on the beach, visitors can explore the area on foot or by renting a bike or scooter.

Once I got there, I started the day off with a delicious iced coffee from Doasis Cafe. I was greeted by some really cute and cheeky monkeys which the locals like to call the ‘Lady Gaga’ monkeys, which I thought was hilarious! The main sights to visit in Railay Beach are obviously the main beach, but also Phra Nang Beach and Princess Cave, which is famous for its numerous phallic wooden statues. If you like hiking, I highly recommend climbing all the way to East Railey Viewpoint. It’s not an easy hike and will definitely require the use of all your limbs, but the view is worth all the effort.

One thing I wasn’t aware of before visiting is that Railay Beach is a very popular destination for rock climbing aficionados, and that most of the photos you’ll see in marketing brochures with stunning views over the beach (ie. Bat Cave) can only be accessed by booking a rock climbing tour with an experienced guide. If you’re into that, it’s probably best to spend one or two nights in Railay Beach.

If you’re hungry, check out Tew Lay Bar and their resident parrot! He’s very cheeky and hilarious!

Krabi Town

If you’re visiting Krabi, make sure to check out its temple called Wat Kaew Korawararam. The temple is absolutely stunning! Its main feature is its large white pagoda, which offers stunning panoramic views of Krabi Town and the surrounding area from its top. The temple grounds feature a lush garden with a variety of plants and flowers, including some beautiful water lotuses, which I had never seen before!

If you feel like going for a hike, then you need to head to the Tiger Cave temple (or Wat Tham Suea) which is located 15 minutes north from Krabi. This Buddhist temple is one of the most popular tourist attractions in the area. The temple's name comes from a legend that a tiger used to inhabit the cave in which the temple is located. The temple complex features several buildings, including a main hall, meditation center, and monk's quarters. The hike up to the top of the mountain offers breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside. It consists of a steep climb up a staircase with over 1,200 steps; definitely be prepared for a challenging ascent and bring lots of water!

If you’re looking for food options, you should check out the night market, which has lots of different food stalls. If have found May and Mark's House and Poo Dam Bar & Restaurant to be relatively good restaurants. If you’re looking for a cafe, then definitely head to Tan Cafe x Just Fine.

Khao Sok National Park

National Park Tour

Khao Sok National Park is located in the Surat Thani province of southern Thailand. The park covers an area of over 700 square kilometers, and is home to a diverse array of wildlife, including elephants, tigers, gibbons, and a wide variety of bird species.

One of the main attractions in Khao Sok National Park is Cheow Lan Lake, which is surrounded by towering limestone cliffs and offers spectacular views. Visitors can take a boat tour of the lake, go kayaking, or even stay overnight in one of the floating bungalows on the lake. I personally chose to stay at the Praiwan Raft House on a 2D1N tour, which I booked via this website.

While I’m happy I visited Khao Sok; sadly I can’t say that it met my expectations. I had read so many positive comments online, and unfortunately I was a bit disappointed. My biggest piece of advice would be to make sure to visit this park before going to Krabi / Railay Beach, which is located about 3 hours south. After seeing the incredible limestone cliffs of Railay Beach, I thought these ones weren’t as impressive. Sadly, the weather also wasn’t on my side, which I think played a big part in my deception. A visit to Khao Sok is quite expensive and therefore I would recommend making sure to go on a sunny day!

On a more positive note, Praiwan Raft House is a beautiful little resort with rustic floating bungalows, and the food there was good! It’s located quite close to coral cave, which was amazing to visit! I also got lucky and saw a mother elephant and her baby in the middle of nature!

Elephant Sanctuary

I had always wanted to visit an elephant sanctuary and did a lot of research to make sure I’d visit an ethical place where elephants are treated respectfully. I came across Sonchana Farm; a small local company where they only accept one group at a time, since they only have one elephant: Somboon. I contacted them directly via Facebook, but recently learned that Somboon got very sick and they’ve now been forced to pause their activities. I really hope Somboon recovers soon! He was 64 years old at the time of my visit, and is a retired blind elephant with only one tusk left. The staff at Sonchana Farm has been taking care of him for over 7+ years, feeding him more than 250kg of bananas every single day! My encounter with Somboon was something very special, and I highly recommend doing a similar experience while in Thailand!

Village Tour

If you would like to visit a traditional village, I would suggest asking the staff from Khao Sok Lake to help you organise a tour. I had the opportunity to visit a rubber plantation and the suspension bridge at Khao Teppitak. I also got to visit a traditional weaving workshop and a rice plantation during harvest season, which was really quite fascinating to witness!

Chiang Mai

I flew into Chiang Mai from Surat Thani Airport. There are several airlines that operate internal flights from Surat Thani to Chiang Mai, but I booked with Thai Lion Air and the flight duration was approximately 2 hours and 15 minutes.

Where to stay in Chiang Mai?

I chose to stay at the Echo Hotel Chiangmai, which was a great and inexpensive option not too far from the city centre!

City Visit

The city of Chiang Mai is beautiful, and it’s relatively easy to wander around its centre by foot! Chiang Mai is known as the "City of Temples" due to its large number of Buddhist temples. It is estimated that there are over 300 temples ranging from small and simple structures to large and ornate complexes around the city!

Some of the city’s most famous temples include Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, Wat Chedi Luang, Wat Phra Singh, and Wat Chiang Man. One of my favourite temple, which I stumbled across by pure chance, is Wat Saen Mueang Ma Luang (Wat Hua Khuang). There were no tourists when I visited and the place was very peaceful! Wat Sri Suphan is also worth a visit if you have time, although women aren’t allowed inside the temple!

Chiang Mai is a popular destination for remote workers, with plenty of good cafes where there’s a wi-fi connection. Artisan Café, My Secret Cafe In Town and glin.cafe are the three I visited and I really liked all of them!

Chiang Rai - White Temple

The next few locations are all located in the city of Chiang Rai, which is located about 4 hours from Chiang Mai in the northernmost province of Thailand. The main reason why I wanted to visit Chiang Rai is to explore the city's stunning temples, including the iconic White Temple (Wat Rong Khun).

Fun fact: Chiang Rai is also a gateway to the Golden Triangle region, where Thailand, Laos, and Myanmar meet.

I took a day trip to Chiang Rai and hired the services of a private driver. I’m not gonna lie, this was a long day on the road, but it was totally worth it! If you have more time though, I would highly recommend spending at least 1-2 nights in the area.

Wat Rong Khun is a Buddhist temple designed by renowned Thai artist Chalermchai Kositpipat, who began construction in 1997. The entire temple complex is filled with intricate carvings and sculptures, all in white and silver. The exterior of the temple is adorned with thousands of small mirrors, which shimmer in the sunlight.

The most impressive part of the temple has got to be the bridge situated at the entrance. Visitors have to walk over a pool of hands reaching out of the ground, symbolizing the cycle of rebirth.

At the time of my visit, the entrance price was 50 Baht per person.

Chiang Rai - Blue Temple

Next on the list was the Blue Temple, also known as Wat Rong Suea Ten. The temple was also designed by Chalermchai Kositpipat, but it is more modern than the White Temple.

The exterior of the temple displays interesting symbols such as serpents and dragons, while the interior is filled with stunning murals depicting the Buddha and other important figures.

At the time of my visit, it was free to visit the temple, but they do encourage donations.

If you happen to be hungry, I would recommend checking out the beautiful Chivit Thamma Da Coffee House, Bistro & Bar. This stunning restaurant is located nearby and offers stunning views over the river. They serve a delicious selection of Asian and Western food, as well as some delicious cakes.

Chiang rai - Black house

The Black House, also known as Baan Dam Museum, is a unique and fascinating attraction. Unlike the White Temple and Blue Temple, the Black House is not a temple, but more like an art museum that showcases the work of Thai artist Thawan Duchanee.

The complex consists of a collection of more than 40 buildings, each made from dark wood. The buildings are arranged around a central courtyard and surrounded by gardens and ponds.

Inside the buildings, visitors can see a wide range of artwork, including sculptures, paintings, and furniture, all created by Thawan Duchanee. When I visited, there was a special 3D exhibition, and we could scan the art to animate it. I thought this was pretty cool! The Black House is a unique and thought-provoking destination that is well worth a visit for anyone interested in art and culture.

At the time of my visit, the entrance fee was 80 Baht.

Chiang Rai - Big Buddha

On our way back to Chiang Mai, we made one last stop to go see the Big Buddha. Now, if you have been to Thailand before, you probably know that there are a lot of Buddha statues everywhere around the country.

However this one, which is also known as Wat Huay Pla Kung, is one of the tallest in Thailand, standing at 79 meters (259 feet) tall. It is made of bronze and is covered in gold leaf, giving it a shimmering appearance in the sunlight.

The construction of the statue was completed in 2008, and it offers stunning views on the surrounding areas if you climb up to the viewing platform!

Lantern Festival

I’m so excited to share the details of this section as it’s the main reason why I organised this trip during November. I had been dying to see this lantern festival for years now, and 2022 was the first year that it was back since covid.

Yi Peng and Loy Krathong are two traditional Thai festivals that are celebrated in various parts of the country each year. Although they are separate events, they often coincide and are sometimes celebrated together.

Yi Peng, which is the main Lantern Festival, is a celebration of the full moon in the twelfth month of the Thai lunar calendar, which usually falls in November. During the festival, people release thousands of lanterns into the sky, creating a breathtaking display of light and color. The lanterns are often decorated with messages and wishes written on them, and it is believed that releasing them brings good luck and prosperity.

Loy Krathong, which also takes place in November, is a celebration of the end of the rainy season and the beginning of the rice harvest. During the festival, people float small boats, or "krathongs," made of banana leaves, flowers, and candles, on rivers and other bodies of water. The boats are often decorated with incense, coins, and other offerings, and are meant to symbolize the floating away of bad luck and negative emotions.

I was lucky enough to experience both and here’s what I would recommend! Definitely celebrate Loy Krathong with tourists and locals in the heart of the city. On the night of Loy Krathong, just head down to Khua Lek (the Iron Bridge) and you will find hundreds of stalls where you can buy your favourite “krathong” and go release it onto the river! This activity is free, plus you’ll get to experience the amazing vibes in the city!

For the lantern festival, I would recommend booking with Asia Highlights. While the tickets are very expensive, it’s totally worth paying the price - it truly is one of these once-in-a-lifetime experiences! No need to pay for anything premium, I have found that the standard tickets are perfectly fine and I had the best time!

Bangkok

It’s hard to write about Thailand without mentioning its capital city: Bangkok. The “City of Angels” is one of the most visited cities in the world and is also home to over 400 temples!

Historic Temples

Even the locals warned me of a phenomenon called ‘templeitis’ which is essentially an overdose of temple visits. It’s true that I visited quite a lot of temples during my trip, but I was committed to exploring the most beautiful ones in Bangkok, despite this temple fatigue. Here are those I would definitely recommend visiting:

• Wat Arun (tip: if you get the opportunity, try to sleep at the Sala Arun Hotel, or at least go have breakfast or drinks at their restaurant called Sala Rattanakosin)

• Wat Pho

• The Grand Palace & the Emerald Buddha

If you’d like to learn more about the history of older temples, I would recommend taking the day trip to Ayutthaya. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is located about 2 hours north of Bangkok and used to be one of the most prosperous cities of the kindgom from the 14th to the 18th century.

City

If you’d like to explore the modern side of the city, Bangkok has a lot of rooftop bars and an amazing food scene! As cliche and expensive as it sounds, I really wanted to experience staying at the Lebua Hotel, which is where they filmed The Hangover movie. Lebua is also home to an incredible rooftop bar called Skybar.

I didn’t have the chance to try that many restaurants, but I can certainly recommend Cafe Luka for breakfast and Helena Greek Kitchen for dinner!

For some of the most stunning views over the city, head to the King Power Mahanakhon tower, which is the tallest tower in all of Thailand and they usually have art exhibitions at the top.

Lastly, if you’re looking for a place to unwind before a flight, note that multiple hotels offer the possibility to buy pool passes for the day. It’s a great way to enjoy a hot afternoon in the city while waiting to go to the airport, which is exactly what I did at the Peninsula!

Erawan Falls

There are numerous day trips that depart from Bangkok. If you’re always craving to be in nature like me, I would definitely recommend heading to Erawan Falls.

Erawan Falls is a popular seven-tiered waterfall located about 65 kilometers east of Kanchanaburi town. The falls are named after Erawan, the three-headed elephant of Hindu mythology, and are considered one of the most beautiful natural attractions in Thailand.

The waterfall is known for its crystal-clear water, which flows over limestone rocks and creates natural pools that are perfect for swimming and relaxing. The pools have different depths and are connected by trails and bridges that allow visitors to explore the various tiers of the falls.

The hike takes about 2 to 3 hours return, and only the top 3 waterfalls are more challenging to reach due to the steep incline.

Dragon Temple

I had hired a private driver to take me to Erawan Falls, and there’s a place that’s kind of on the way there that I really wanted to see too! You’ve probably guessed it by now, it’s the Dragon Temple, also known as Wat Samphran. It’s located about 40 kilometers west of Bangkok and is famous for its 17-story pink tower that features a giant dragon sculpture winding its way up the building's exterior.

The temple was built in 1985 and is an active Buddhist temple that serves as a monastery and meditation center for monks and visitors. The dragon tower is not open to the public, but visitors can explore the temple's grounds and admire the dragon statue from the ground.

Bangkok’s Nightlife

It’s impossible to write about Bangkok without mentioning two of the most famous nightlife destinations for tourists: Khao San Road and the Red Light District.

Now let me be upfront and tell you that I did not like Khao San Road at all, and would suggest you do not stay in a hotel on that street, because it means you will never be able to sleep! It’s extremely loud and always busy. A much better alternative is Soi Rambuttri Alley which is located nearby and much cuter / quiter. It’s the perfect place to try some local pad thai or their coconut ice cream!

If you’re staying in a hotel that’s more east, I would suggest going to the night market and then checking out the Red Light District instead, more specifically Soi Cowboy, where you’ll find plenty of bars.

Khao Yai

Another wonderful nature escape near Bangkok is Khao Yai National Park, which is approximately 3 hours from the city centre. The park was established in 1962 as Thailand's first national park and is known for its diverse wildlife, including elephants, tigers, bears, gibbons, and various species of birds and reptiles.

I booked my group tour via Get Your Guide and really enjoyed my day out! We stopped at the Birder’s Lodge for coffee on our way there, which was super cute. We then headed to the national park and started off by going on a nice walk where visitors may sometimes spot elephants. The rest of the day was dedicated to the visit of two waterfalls: Haew Su Wat & Haew Narok.

traditional Markets

Last but not least, one of the main highlights of my trip was the visit of some traditional markets. I also booked this day trip via Get Your Guide and it was inclusive of two markets I really wanted to visit: the floating market of Damnoen Saduak, and the famous train market in Mae Klong.

Both experiences were wonderful! We started off in one of the neighborhing cities and caught the train to go to Mae Klong. We then experienced what it feels like being on the train and seeing all the vendors pull their stalls in to allow for the train to pass! We then disembarked the train and were able to walk around the market before the train passed right in front of our eyes.

Afterwards, we headed to Damnoen Saduak for a boat ride around the market and some lunch! I highly recommend trying the sticky mango rice that one of the old ladies make near the entrance. It was delicious!