India had always been on my bucket list; however, I was quite ambivalent about my desire to visit. I had heard mixed reviews about this country; some were phenomenal, others were horrible. Like most foreign places I travel to, I dove deep into “research mode” when planning my trip. I wanted to feel as prepared as possible for a destination like India, which I knew might be quite confronting as a Western caucasian-looking woman.

Now, I need to be honest here. While I thoroughly enjoyed my trip and saw some of the most beautiful pieces of architecture I have ever seen in my life, I’m tempted to say that the Golden Triangle is something you do once and don’t necessarily feel the need to repeat ever again. This part of India is full of contrasts and overstimulation. It was quite a big shock for someone like me, who grew up in the middle of Canadian nature. Sadly, the most confronting aspects were the pollution and massive disparities between the various socioeconomic classes.

That being said, I think everyone should travel to India at least once in their lifetime. It’s such a big culture shock, and you’ll definitely learn a lot. The rollercoaster of emotions you experience when travelling to India is quite unique and hard to describe.

The Golden Triangle: an 8-day itinerary

DELHI

Despite warnings of pollution, Delhi proved to be an amazing surprise! The city is a complete blend of old and new, where stunning architectural gems coexist with old and dirty buildings, bustling markets, and hipster neighbourhoods. Spending two to three days in Delhi is essential to appreciate its dynamic energy fully. Some areas feel like peaceful pockets amongst the urban chaos!

I particularly enjoyed wandering around Hauz Khas with its fusion of ancient ruins, artsy cafes, and Connaught Place, which is perfect for shopping and soaking in local culture. Make sure to stop at Wenger’s for a pastry while you’re there! 

The bustling energy of Paranthe Wali Gali in Old Delhi was something else! I’m so glad I had my new friend Tripta to show me around and to ensure I wouldn’t get lost. The tiny street that leads to Jain Dharamshala temple is full of beautifully painted doors. Speaking of pretty streets, I thoroughly enjoyed my early morning visit of Khan Market.

Other monument highlights are Humayun's Tomb, which was so much better than I imagined, Qutub Minar and the Lotus Temple.

When it comes to food, Delhi did not disappoint! Whether you’re into fusion bites or traditional Indian fare, you’ll find a mix of everything. I personally loved the chill atmosphere of Cafe Fika in Hauz Khas and Perch Coffee in Khan Market, and also had an incredible South Indian meal at Sagar Ratna in Connaught Place. 

AGRA

Agra, on the other hand, was a bit of a letdown after the vibrancy of Delhi. While it’s home to the majestic Taj Mahal—the very reason for many visitors’ pilgrimage to this city—Agra itself doesn’t offer much beyond its historical landmarks. The town feels run-down, and navigating its streets can be overwhelming with the constant hassle of street vendors. 

That said, the Taj Mahal truly lived up to its reputation and had I had time, I would have visited the monument twice: once in the early morning and another time for a sunset boat ride. Unfortunately, when I visited, the fog was too intense in the morning, and we could not even see the Taj Mahal, so I had no choice but to wait and visit in the afternoon. I was afraid the crowds would be unbearable, but the site is so vast that it feels enjoyable to visit, even during peak hours. 

Despite Agra’s shortcomings, the Agra Fort and Itmad-ud-Daula (known as the Baby Taj) are two monuments I would also recommend visiting in addition to the Taj Mahal. However, I strongly advise limiting your time in Agra once you’ve seen the main monuments. Regarding your choice of accommodation, I’d suggest booking a stay at a nice hotel to retreat from the chaos of the old town or staying super close to the Taj Mahal to minimise your walking. Be mentally prepared for run-down accommodations and constant hassling if you choose the latter, though.

The dining options in Agra are more modest compared to Delhi, but make sure to go to Joney’s Place for a heartwarming meal. If you’d like to see the Taj Mahal from a surrounding rooftop, I’d suggest going to Hotel Sai for some snacks and tea.

On your way out of Agra, make sure to stop in Fatehpur Sikri, an ancient fortified city carved in red sandstone that briefly served as the capital of the Mughal empire.

JAIPUR

The real gem of the Golden Triangle for me was Jaipur, the fabled Pink City. Despite battling some of the worst pollution levels on the trip [which got me incredibly sick], the beauty of Jaipur's architecture left me speechless. Each corner had me say “wow” every two seconds!

You’ll want to start your first day there bright and early to get to Hawa Mahal before the traffic and the crowds. There’s something super peaceful about seeing this monument during golden hour. For the best view, head to the rooftop of the Tattoo Cafe & Lounge, located just across the street from the famous building. The entrance isn’t super straightforward, and you’ll need to climb up a few staircases.

After breakfast, I would recommend heading to the City Palace right when it opens. The tickets to visit the palace are quite expensive, but it is 100% worth paying for a private tour with one of the official tour guides who works for the palace. I learned super interesting details about the history of the palace, its owner Maharaja Sawai Padmanabh Singh, also known as Pacho, and the city of Jaipur! The whole visit felt like stepping into a royal fairy tale.

The Amber Palace, Patrika Gate and Nahargarh Fort are three other monuments definitely worth visiting, but similar to the City Palace, I would advise trying to get there early or late in the day to avoid crowds. 

Disclaimer: While a lot of popular tourist destinations around the world have now become locations for professional shoots (thanks to social media), these usually tend to take place in public places. In Jaipur, you’ll notice countless wedding/creative photoshoots happening at popular paid landmarks. The number of shoots taking place at the same time can become quite overwhelming, and the lack of consideration for other tourists can, at times, ruin the whole experience. I’m generally someone of patient nature, but in India, you’ve really got to have thick skin and stand up for what you want. 

What also made Jaipur unforgettable was the food. I had some of the best meals here, including a luxurious experience at Rambagh Palace’s Rajput Room for breakfast, which was an absolute treat. If you’re looking for something a little more westernised and laid-back, Bar Palladio is a must for its unique atmosphere and Italian-influenced cuisine in an Indian setting. You’ll find drinking alcohol is not the most common thing in India, but if you’re in the mood for a nice cocktail, I highly recommend checking out the Lobby Bar at the ITC Rajputana.

BONUS Destination

An ocean-escape to GOA

Is it worth visiting Goa? Well, it depends on what you’re looking for, but if you’re in need of a relaxing beach holiday, think again or make sure to stay in South Goa. The North of the state is all about partying. The locals I met actually recommended Kerala as the best region for seeing traditional India and nature over Goa. I wish I had listened.

During my trip to India, I decided to squeeze in a 3-day roundtrip to Goa to get a glimpse of the Indian coastline. I booked return flights from Delhi and found an Airbnb on Anjuna Beach. Unfortunately, I was very disappointed by it, and here’s why: Anjuna Beach, located in North Goa, turned out to be a massive party hub, with loud music playing until 6-7 a.m. every night, which I hadn't fully realized at the time of booking. Additionally, Goa has a taxi mafia, making transportation difficult and expensive, as taxi apps often fail to secure reliable rides.

The overall vibe near Anjuna Beach felt quite dark, possibly due to the party scene, and I felt uncomfortable. The beaches were overly commercialized and didn't match my peaceful mental image of Goa as a serene place for yoga retreats. For solo travellers, Anjuna Beach isn't ideal and seems better suited for those attending festivals as part of a group.

However, if you are on a long journey across India, or for some reason you know you’ll be visiting the area, there are a few places I can recommend checking out:

North Goa:

• Chapora Fort and Vagator Beach

• Ozran Beach

• Slow Tide Restaurant (Anjuna Beach)

• Elephant Cafe (Anjuna Beach)

Central Goa:

• Old Goa Churches

• Sahakari Spice Farm

South Goa:

• Cola Beach

• Kakolem Beach

• Cabo de Rama Viewpoint

After reading this, you might be feeling all sorts of mixed feelings, and trust me, that’s exactly how I felt during my whole trip. There were many highs and many lows, many beautiful and ugly sights, many kindhearted people and many disrespectful people. India is a country of opposites and contrasts for those who care to truly get out of their comfort zones.

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